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Main Strut service

 
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mt



Joined: 21 Mar 2008
Posts: 19

PostPosted: Mon Aug 04, 2008 1:01 am    Post subject: Main Strut service Reply with quote

Right main strut has been slowing going flat with evidence of a leak: There is slightly more grime on and around the strut and wheel mount as compared to the left. Suggestions, tricks etc. for someone who has not serviced a Bonanza strut?

Thanks
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VinceGlorioso



Joined: 25 Feb 2008
Posts: 16
Location: Fort Myers, Fla.

PostPosted: Mon Oct 27, 2008 10:26 am    Post subject: Are you sure your strut is actually leaking? Reply with quote

Are you sure the grime you are seeing is 5606 hydraulic fluid, and not oil? We thought we had a leaking main strut in December 2007 and later found out the oil was from an "over-serviced" felt pad that holds oil to keep the strut barrel bottom lubricated, it hasn't leaked nitrogen in 11 months.
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mt



Joined: 21 Mar 2008
Posts: 19

PostPosted: Mon Oct 27, 2008 11:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't know what kind of oil it is -- how did you determine it? The strut seems to have held a nitrogen top off for about three months now but with it being colder it is hard to say that with any amount of confidence. That said the grime has not come back. Thanks for your input.
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bgwells
Site Admin


Joined: 01 Sep 2005
Posts: 23

PostPosted: Sat Nov 01, 2008 7:46 pm    Post subject: RE: Main Strut service Reply with quote

All I can tell you is, check your log books and see when the last time the seals got replaced. I think the answer will be never been done. The seals, o-rings, etc. get old and brittle over a period of time and use. Monkey around with it all you want, but you are just asking for problems. Be aware that the main gear strut does need full extension to retract up into the wheel well. Otherwise guess what happens????? Get the list of parts needed and locate a good mechanic that has done them before and get the strut(s) rebuilt. Otherwise you will be the first person I know that was able to get another 50 years service problem free from a set of strut seals. lol
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Bo 35C



Joined: 05 Mar 2009
Posts: 3
Location: Monterey, CA

PostPosted: Thu Mar 12, 2009 1:28 am    Post subject: Main Strut replacement tips requested Reply with quote

Hello,

I am a new member to this website and the proud new owner of a 1952 C35. Its been flying great for 8 weeks but the left main gear strut has compressed almost completely on the last flight. I had serviced it with compressed air when it was low (just after I bought the plane) and it had worked fine until this past weekend when on a cross country it compressed completely. We had filled it with nitrogen and got it to hold for the trip home, but upon landing the same thing happened. I have been looking for tips on how to troubleshoot and/or replace the rings and seals but have gotten no complete answers. We have a T-34B at the club I joined and the mechanic is well versed with this type of maintenance. He informs me that it is a very labor intensive operation. However, I found one posting through Google claiming that the service time can be reduced by "7 to 8 hours". I was wondering if anyone knew of this procedure and if it one worth trying.

Thanks
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Bo 35C



Joined: 05 Mar 2009
Posts: 3
Location: Monterey, CA

PostPosted: Thu Mar 12, 2009 2:06 am    Post subject: clarification Reply with quote

Regarding my recent post, the maintenance procedure I indicated is at the following link:

http://thedeeter.com/Save7of8Gear.htm

Any suggestions would be most helpful. Thanks!
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brad hammond



Joined: 20 Jun 2007
Posts: 18

PostPosted: Fri Mar 13, 2009 5:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I recently repacked struts on my 47 35. what you read was right. It is easier to pull the gear down and repack them on the bench. The o'ring kit is around 30 dollar plus the Mil-H-5606. You will need jacks and an A&P, even if your A&P isn't experienced in Bonanza gear all Oleo Shock Strut function the same.
Id say each side would take you around 8 hs with the tear down rebuild then operational check. If you get and A&P that will let you help then it should go alot smoother. Just each one take a side and follow his lead. The hardest seal is the enternal one that one takes a long pick to remove. Good Luck!
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Bo 35C



Joined: 05 Mar 2009
Posts: 3
Location: Monterey, CA

PostPosted: Tue Mar 17, 2009 4:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Brad. I got the strut back up and seated after we changed the shrader valve. But I think it needs a new O-ring because the back of the strut showed some hyd fluid dripping down (very minimal) the back after we serviced it. However, I took it for a spin this weekend and the strut held on landing. I ordered some strut seal additive and it gets here this week. I'll apply it and see if that does the trick.

Do you know where I can get an O-ring kit? I have been looking for each individual part but my manual has the old 'AN" numbers - sometimes it difficult to find the right stuff. Is there a "kit" I can purchase?

Thanks for the feedback! Once all is said and done I am going to post a full description because I think its a good topic to have all the answers for.

Thanks
Pat
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mt



Joined: 21 Mar 2008
Posts: 19

PostPosted: Tue May 26, 2009 11:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well I finally got some time and ordered the seal kits for all three struts from performance, took it over to the mechanic and tore into it and what a treat it was. In the end it took two long days, spread over three to remove, rebuild, and replace all three. Found the scraper and retaining ring were missing in the nose and the shim washer had been installed between the bottom bushing and strut which, in turn, destroyed the bottom bushing. New bushing $158, scraper $30, shim $178, but the retaining ring was $278! All in all it was a pain but I hope they hold cause I don't want to do it again.
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